Validation and Refinement of Analytical Techniques for Fiber Content and Fabric Identification
Research Goal
Improve the accuracy of and automate textile sorting for recycling.
Project Description
Validate the use of NIR to accurately identify fiber type following laundering and treatment. Develop and refine a machine learning model to accurately identify fabric construction through imaging.
Impact
Textile sorting is one of the most challenging bottlenecks in circularity; understanding the fiber content and fabric construction gives data to make decisions around chemical and mechanical recycling as well as end use applications, facilitating recycling at scale.
Project Progress
Project Outputs
Discover the tangible outcomes and impact of this project.
Karen Leonas
NC State University
Professor of Textile Sciences, Department of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, NC State University
Karen Leonas’s research follows textile and apparel materials across their full lifecycle, from production and processing through to disposal, degradation, and what comes after. As Professor of Textile Sciences at NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles, she examines where the industry’s environmental footprint is created and how it can be reduced.
Her work spans polymer degradation across marine, freshwater, agricultural, and biological environments, microfiber release and transmission, product development using recycled and bio-based materials, and processing technologies that reduce water use and chemical impact. Circular economy principles run through this work, with a focus on closed-loop manufacturing as a practical industry model.
She brings both industry and academic experience to this work, having held faculty positions at the University of Illinois, University of Georgia, and Washington State University, and worked previously at Burlington Industries. She serves on advisory boards including the New York Academy of Sciences Change Fashion Advisory Board, Walmart’s technical and sustainability collaborations, and The Sustainability Consortium, where she co-chairs its Clothing, Footwear and Textile Committee. She has received numerous awards for both research and teaching.
Education
- Doctor of Philosophy (PhD), Textile Chemistry/Textile Physics, University of Tennessee, 1985
- Master of Science (MS), Clothing and Textiles, University of Tennessee, 1983
- Bachelor of Science (BS), Textile Chemistry, NC State University, 1980
- An Image-Based Deep Learning Approach for Precise Sorting of Knitted and Woven Textiles.
Informs Annual Meeting (Atlanta), 10/27/2025
Huang Y., Quddus M.A., Leonas K.







